Tuesday, 18 January 2011

Facts and Figures

Just a few stats for the geeks amongst us!

97 = No of nights away
47= No of different beds slept in
16 = no of flights
10 = no of days on motorbikes
8 = no of bus journeys
6 = no of train journeys
6 = no of boat journeys
12 = no of times we've passed through immigration
23 = no of dives
16 = minimum no of different beers drunk
3 = pairs of binned footwear
4 = packages of tat sent home
3 = days into trip that first package was sent home
8 = bottles of mozzy repellant used
7 = currencies used
6 = honeymooning upgrades/treats blagged
25 = max no of people in a 16 seated minibus
5 = max no of people seen on one moped
29 = blogs written


Funniest moments:
C = Tony's salon experience
T = Carols inability to walk after mountain climb

Most ridiculous moment:
Both = Vietnam visas

Best meal:
Both = Banyan Tree rooftop restaurant in Bangkok

Worst meal:
C = Bowl of "stew" that looked like snot and it had bits of wood in it!
T = no disasters

Sweatiest moment:
C = everyday in Borneo apart from on top of Mount Kinabalu!
T = after hitting 100 golf balls, Kota Kinabalu, Borneo

Best purchase:
C = hat and gloves for mountain climb
T = umbrella in Bangkok for 75p that's still going strong

Worst purchase:
C = Key rings for rip off price at traditional longhouse
T = "Nike" flip flops

4 = no of hours until our flight so we've got to go!

See you soon

Mr and Mrs McK xxxxxxx

Slinging about in Singapore

Morning All,

We have spent the last couple of days wandering the sights of Singapore and I must say that after a dodgey start we have had a lovely couple of days here. Maybe it was false expectations but when we booked two first class tickets from Kuala Lumpur to Singapore we were hoping for eight hours of comfort as we knew Singapore has a reputation for cleanliness and efficiency. The train was the first let down, it was an old and battered diesel engine pulling old and battered carriages with old and battered seats. Credit where it's due though, the air con was certainly new and man enough for the job. I know I'm not renowned for coping with extremes of temperature but I've never needed to unpack and sit in a sleeping bag for a train journey before! It was over 30 degrees outside and about -5 inside!

On arrival at Singapore the train station was old and battered too, it didn't even have an ATM so we were cashless. We both wondered if we were in the right Singapore! Once we figured everything out and got in a cab it all became clear, the train service from KL to Singapore is closing this summer and they are knocking down the station and redeveloping the land, that explains the lack of investment for at least 20 yrs.

The next morning we were up bright and breezy for a days hardcore sightseeing. The underground trains turned out to live up to expectations of supreme efficiency but as you know you don't get to see much between stops so we plumped for the ultimate mode of transport for a tourist . . . . . . . . . the open deck bus! By the end of an action packed day we had soaked up the botanical gardens, Marina Bay, Orchard Rd shopping area, had a late lunch and a couple of Singapore slings in Raffles Hotel Long Bar, before finishing on the riverside in Clarke Quay for more food and drinks.

Yesterday we took it slightly easier with a very late start followed by a wander around Chinatown, did a bit of shopping and headed back to the riverside for dinner. We have decided that cities are exhausting and we are not very good at them as all we do is look for places to eat, drink or just sit! It is only the ridiculous air con that moves us on!

Talking of moving on, we are just killing a bit of time before heading to the airport for our flight home. We have that feeling of it being an age since we touched down in Bangkok but still we can't believe that it's time to go home already. But I think we're ready to unpack for a while and cook for ourselves (for about a week anyway!) and I'm ready to finally become Mrs McKeown which, as I'm travelling on my old passport, I haven't had the homour yet! (although we have been Mr and Mrs Morris twice!).

See you all very soon indeed.

Love Mr and Mrs McK xxxxxx

Saturday, 15 January 2011

All Fish But No Chips

Morning All

Long time no speak but we are still here. We left you in Sandakan just over a week ago. From there we took a short flight south to Tawau, bus east to Semporna, then boat out to Sipadan Kapalai Diving Resort (SKDR), about 40km SE of Semporna.

We have just spent a truly wonderful seven days at SKDR. The whole place was built on stilts above a shallow sand and coral reef, and the nearest land was a small island about 1 mile away. As far as Carol was concerned it was paradise, and not just for the lovely buildings, scrummy food, fantastic diving or friendly staff. Her main reason for thinking this way was the complete lack of flies, mozzies, bugs and general biting mingey critters that have lunched on her regularly for the last 13 weeks.

As far as the diving was concerned, it was just the best. This area is rated in numerous publications as being one of the top 5 or 10 dive sites in the world. It is also a UNESCO world heritage site, and one of the candidates for the new seven wonders of the world. That puts it in competition with Halong Bay in Vietnam which we visited earlier on our trip. Not a bad itinery to have visited two of the potential "wonders."

There were four main dive areas. We could dive the Kapalai reef straight off a platform from the resort. This gave us corals, eels, sea horses, fish up to around a 18" long, and quite a few turtles including a giant of about 6 feet, all right on our doorstep. The second dive area around Mabul island a mile away had very similar sea life. A third site at Siamil island 40mins away was a good example of what damage is done to the reefs by over fishing. A lot of the reef was dead or dying. The biggest problem here was the lack of control on the fishing where illegal dynamite use to catch fish was destroying the reef. Even during our dive there we heard a loud blast and felt the shockwave from it's use. The look of panic on everyone's face was quite something as we all looked at each other expecting to see someones air tank exploding. Luckily the problem is being targeted and and all other sites are in great condition. Also luckily for us we only went to Siamil once. The absolute gem though was the island of Sipadan. This is a completely protected island and reef where nobody is allowed to stay on the island, and diver numbers on the reef are limited to 120 per day. The result was fabulous coral reefs, huge numbers of fish, including big uns up to 3 feet long, huge schools of circling barracuda, 50 or more turtles, and possibly >100 grey reef and white tip sharks. We did 21 dives in total over the seven days, including 10 at Sipadan. Our last dive there on our last morning was brilliant. We came across a couple of white tip sharks nosing around under a large rock before starting to get more excited about something. Before we knew it another eight had joined them and were having a right old feeding frenzy on some poor old fish hiding under the rock. All the time we were just a few feet away with a front seat David Attenborough view. I have to admit it was possible the first time on our trip that we were really sad to have to move on from a place, maybe because we are so close to the end now.

We left Borneo yesterday for a flying visit to Kuala Lumpur before heading on tomorrow to Singapore. We have got a cracking view of the Petronas twin towers from our hotel window. We've also had another flower massacre in our room with petals everywhere, plus a chocolate fondue with marsh mallows, strawberries & doughnuts for dipping, and a Bogof offer on a spa treatment. All courtesy of Libby and her e-mailing. As Carol has said before you've got to hand it to her, the girl certainly is good (Thanks loads Libs we've enjoyed all your special treats).

So tomorrow we'll be on the express train heading down the peninsula to Singapore for the very last leg of our honeymoon before flying home on Tuesday night.

Until the next time, love to all as usual.

Mr & Mrs McK Xxx

Wednesday, 5 January 2011

Going Ape

Morning Everybody.

Before we start just a quick description of our new year celebrations. We went to our hotel bar (i still couldn't walk much further!) at about 9.30pm where a four piece band were playing various Whitney, Mariah and Lady GaGa numbers. Then a troop of Ladyboys came on and had a boogie and mimed a couple more numbers, as they got more and more into it they were demanding more and more audience participation and Tonys arm appeared around my shoulder and his grip got tighter and tighter!

We arrived in Sandakan with the promise that it is the gateway to Borneos most abundant wildlife and we have not been let down. On Sunday we left Sandakan for a two day trip to the Kinabatangan River, on the way we visited Gomantong Cave which was home to a few million bats and swifts, and absolutely stank. There were massive mounds of bat and bird poo everywhere, even on the walkways which was unfortunate for the girl that fell over - cue tears of humiliation! We took a boat trip down the Kinabatangan River during the afternoon and into the evening to try and spot the wildlife that usually head to the water before turning in for the night. We saw big snakes and monitor lizards both of which are next to impossible to spot to the untrained eye. Hornbills and eagles were flying overhead while the long tailed and pig tailed macaques and proboscis monkeys fooled around in the trees on the riverbank. All of this was pretty amazing to see in the wild at such close proximity but did not compare to what happened next. Just as the light was starting to fade and we were heading back downriver to our lodge a few of us spotted the familiar silhouette of an ape moving from tree to tree but this fella was moving slowly and not jumping like the others do. It took just a nano second before someone called out Orang-Utan Cue oohs and aahs a'la bonfire night, especially when we saw a couple more and one of them had a baby! We sat and watched them for a good 20 minutes or so until they moved on and it really was absolutely amazing to see such rarely seen animals in the wild.

Our planned night time trek was cancelled which was a real shame. Apparently the elephants had decided to use our path turning it into a right old quagmire.

The next morning we took another boat trip but headed in the opposite direction down the Kinabatangan river in search of more wildlife, specifically the Asian pigmy elephants that had been seen in the area a couple of days previously. Sadly we were not that lucky and they had obviously moved on but we did see a pile of elephant poo! We were treated to more tree top gymnastic displays by the Proboscis monkeys though. They have become our favourites for their devil may care attitude of travel. There's no stopping them when moving through the tree tops and coming to the end of a branch. Without pausing they just launch themselves into the air, all four limbs spread eagled in the sure fire knowledge that at least one of their hands or feet will find a grip. This did sometimes result in a lot of branch bending on landing, but the monkeys never lost their grip and always came springing back up on the rebound. A short trek around an oxbow lake and then back down the river in the company of more hornbills, eagles and monkeys, but no Orang-Utans, completed the trip back to the lodge.

After lunch we departed the lodge for Sepilok Orang-Utan Rehabilitation Centre (SOURC) where we checked in to their jungle resort. The SOURC covers more than 40 square km and has numerous hiking trails for strolling through the rain forest. This centre is similar to the one we saw in Sarawak where they rehabilitate injured and orphaned baby orang-utans and then release them into the semi-wild but continue to provide food in case any of them need it. We arrived too late for that afternoons feeding time but were up bright and early the following day. As we strolled along one of the trails to a feeding platform we noticed one Orang-Utan sitting in a tree above us. As we stood there watching, she slid down a rope above our head and we noticed a little orange baby clinging to her for all it was worth. These two were then joined by a third Orang-Utan on the feeding platform. It was quite amusing watching the scores of macaques inching towards them but not being quite brave enough to join them on the feeding platform, probably because if they got too close the orang-utan swung his fists! After 20-30 minutes one of the Orang-Utans got up and moved to a nearby tree. This was the signal for the twenty or thirty macaques to move in and start grabbing what they could, and it was just as entertaining watching them as it was the Orang-Utans. The mother and baby stayed in sight in the distance for ages while she fed herself and her baby then in the blink of an eye they were gone. After the last couple of days we have now seen for ourselves that they really are the kings of the swingers.

Today we have been to the other tourist spots of the Sandakan area including the memorial park of the WWII prisoner of war camp and finding an English tea room complete with croquet lawn where we had cucumber sandwiches, scones and English breakfast tea.

Tomorrow we are heading to Kapalai dive resort near Sipidan Island which is said to be one of the top ten places to dive in the world. We have six days there with unlimited dives and we cannot wait to get back in the water.

More on that another time.

Love to all, Mr & Mrs McK xxx

Friday, 31 December 2010

Onwards and Upwards

Morning Everybody, we hope you've all had a fab Christmas. Ours was slightly unconventional to say the least, we had to keep reminding ourselves it was Christmas Day while we had a massage, had a rematch of underwater swimming and then went to the closest thing we could find to a traditional Christmas dinner (it had turkey in it). A four day Christmas treat at a luxury resort was pretty budget blowing so we made sure we got every pennies worth by not leaving the grounds for the entire time! Five pools, a golf course with driving range, eight restaurants, cinema and goodness knows what else kept us entertained well enough though. For the most part we just enjoyed dipping in the pool and going to the spa. Which reminds me, fresh from his hair salon experience Tony has now well and truly found his feminine side and had an hour long facial at the spa and then told me all about the various fragrances etc used afterwards! Shame then, that that evening before dinner we popped by the driving range and he hit 100 balls which made him so sweaty his white shirt was soaked through, so much for the cleansing then!

The next two days couldn't have been more different. We checked out of five star luxury and headed to the top of the highest mountain in SE Asia - literally. I was sold the trip based on information describing Mt Kinabalu as one of the easiest mountains in the world to climb and as long as you've got determination and stamina anyone can do it. Well let me tell you now I beg to differ! I haven't climbed many mountains I must admit, but if this was meant to be one of the easiest in the WORLD I may not be climbing too many more! At 4095.2 meters the summit is higher than anyone can ski in Europe or even in the US that we know of. The trail to the top is only 8.7km which should give you some idea of how steep it is. We set off at 9.40am on day one and were booked in to the last available accommodation at 3272m which was just about the top of the tree line. Unfortunately what was probably a pleasant trail at one point had been turned into a set of steps that were like doing stairs two at a time for three hours! The last hour and a half was spent much more comfortably over the natural terrain of boulders and stones. We arrived at Laban Rata and checked in to our room - I had bottom bunk Tony had top, the generator was broken so showers were out of the question as I could barely even wash my hands in the water it was so cold.

At 2am we had a light breakfast before heading off to do the final 2.7km climb to the summit in time for sunrise. I actually loved this part of the climb, we only had head torches in the pitch black and the going was pretty steep but it was really exhilarating and best of all it was cold, it was blowing a gale which meant we had hats and gloves and everything! I know to most people that sounds horrible but for someone who's thermostat breaks down at temperatures above 30*c it was fabulous! We made it to the summit about 5.35am and the sun popped up on the hour and all was good with the world.

That was until we had to come back down again. We were to walk the entire 8.7km downhill that same day, the top was so steep I had a few wobbles where I thought I was going down the quick way. A quick stop at the overnight shack for breakfast and we were off again. For anyone else with prematurely ageing knees or hips you'll know that the way down is so much worse than the climb. To cut a long story short it was such a hard slog all the way down, I won't go into it too much because I'll only end up using expletive after expletive! At the bottom I was hardly mobile without my walking stick that the guide had made me take the day before (at the time I thought he was a cheeky git but it turns out he saw the cripple in me!). But we finished in high spirits, mainly at my expense and headed back to town with our certificates of achievement in tow, feeling pleased with ourselves.

That was over 48hrs ago now and I can still hardly walk! Tony was really struggling yesterday too which made me feel a bit less ridiculous, but he has just shown me that he is now able to jog across the room (sort of!) so his recovery seems to be going better than mine. We tried a massage yesterday but it only caused pain!

We have flown to Sandakan today, I was tempted to ask the airline for special assistance! We are here to see the orang-utans, elephants, monkeys and crocs.

Happy New Year to everybody, see you all in 2011

Love Mr and Mrs McK xxx

Saturday, 25 December 2010

Merry Christmas

Good Morning Blog Fans!

We would just like to wish you all a very merry Christmas, hopefully everybody has been able to get to where they should be and the weather hasn't ruined anyones festive plans.

It's a positively balmy Christmas day here, the resort is decorated to the max and has non stop festive tunes pumping out in all public areas but it still feels like August to us.

Wherever you are and whatever you are doing we hope you all have a wonderful Christmas.

Lots of love Mr and Mrs McK xxx

Friday, 24 December 2010

Caves, Bats & Hair Styling

Morning All

We left you with the news that we were flying to Guning Mulu National Park. The flight was 30 minutes from Miri and as we flew inland huge banks of clouds started building over the forest. As we descended all we could see out the windows was a few tree clad hills peaking up through the clouds. It was a bit worrying entering the clouds, knowing that we were already below some of the nearby hills. Then our little prop plane started getting a right old bumping & shaking until the pilot suddenly gunned the engine and went up again. After a second similarly aborted attempt at landing he announced that the cloud was down to the ground and we would have to circle until there was a break in the cloud. Ten minutes later a break appeared, and like a dueling fighter pilot he dived through the gap and headed for the air strip. As soon as the wheels were down he put on maximum air brakes and foot brake before doing a handbrake turn at the end of the runway. No wonder he'd wanted to see the runway, Linford Christie could probably cover it in 20 seconds!

That first afternoon absolutely poured down so we lazed around a bit and made plans for the next couple of days. It's the rainy season here but that was the first time we've had really consistent rain rather than a heavy but short afternoon shower.

We spent the next couple of days doing short treks and river journeys through the national park. These included a forest trail to a small waterfall (alledgedly good for swimming below, but in reality the walk was better than the destination) and a tree top suspended canopy walk. We also visted 4 different caves, each pretty spectacular in their own right. Deer cave in particular was a sight worth seeing. The locals claim it's the largest known cave in the world and home to between 3 or 4 million bats. We walked through it in the late afternoon, and 3-4 million bats make an awful lot of guano with enough ammonia to clear the stuffiest of blocked noses. On leaving this cave we hung around just below the entrance in the hope of seeing one of natures phenomenal shows; the bat exodus. After 20 or 30 minutes a few small groups of bats exited the cave. We were just beginning to think that this wasn't all it was cracked up to be when the main body started leaving. For the next thirty minutes bats were pouring out of the cave and circling above before heading off for their nightly feast. Luckily for us they were not vampire bats and were only interested in insects. I have to admit though that it was pretty special and a we did feel quite privileged to witness this event.

We flew from Guning Mulu to Kota Kinabalu in Sabah yesterday (Wednesday). Although Sarawak and Sabah are part of Malaysia, they are semi autonomous and have their own immigration checks and passport stamping procedure. As such I'm claiming Sabah as the eigth country we've visited on this trip.

Tomorrow (Christmas Eve) we head to the five star Pacific Sutera Resort in Kota Kinabalu for a bit of Christmas luxury. We've booked in for three nights in order to make the most of the golf course, the spa, the gym, the Olympic swimming pool and the messing around pool with pool bar. In order to look presentable I decided today to get a haircut. Unfortunately all I could find was a 'salon' with a couple of nice Gok Wan type chaps. A bit over the top for a grade 1 buzz cut all over, but hey, beggars can't be choosers. Now it normally takes me or Carol 5 minutes to complete the job but that was never on the cards in the Gok Salon. After 10 minutes of using the clippers . . . . and a comb!!!! I thought he was finished; but no!

I'll hand you over to Carol for her version . . . . .

The salon was in a massive hypermarket so I decided to have a browse while I was waiting for Tony to finish. I headed off and said I'd let him know if I left the level we were on. A few minutes later I popped by and said I was off to the other end of the mall but I'd see him back at the salon. A few more minutes later and I was back outside the salon and it looked like he was nearly finished because the guy was putting the clippers away, so i decided I'd wait outside. A couple more minutes passed and I turned around to see where he was and I couldn't believe my eyes - he was having his hair blow dried! At this point I'm now on my own in the middle of a huge mall absolutely bent double, crying with laughter! I compose myself and look around again and I can't see him anywhere, then see that he is out the back having his hair washed, this I thought was a nice touch to get rid of the stray hairs. The next time I glance over I see Tony walking back to the cutting chairs wearing a towel turban! This completely finishes me off, I can hardly breath and am now attracting the attention of onlookers. Tony spots me through the window and quicker than you could say towel turban it's gone and he is using the towel to dry his hair, trying to act like nothing happened.

Back to me. . . . . Having finished cutting my hair Gok picked up a hair dryer and said he'd use it to get rid of stray hairs. This was new to me but made a bit of sense so I thought ok, let's go along with this. He then removed the gown, but instead of going to the till he strolled to the back of the salon telling me to follow. Though slightly confused I followed him. He then indicated I sit in the chair by the hair washing basin. I told him I didn't need it washed but he explained it was also to get rid of any remaining stray hairs. Fair played I thought, you can't knock the guy for being thorough, although I did have to insist that he didn't shampoo also! He then wrapped my head in a towel and directed me to the front of the salon again. I was now caught between the embarrassment of everybody who walked past seeing me with my towel turban, and the hilarity of seeing Carol rocking with laughter. I asked him what the next step was, and when he said he needed to blow dry my hair before applying some products it was all I could do not to laugh in his face. I quickly removed the turban, handed him his money and joined Carol outside. For the next five minutes she could barely talk due to laughing so much. Even 10 hours later when she insisted on adding her version of events the tears were rolling down her cheeks again!

Our plans for after Christmas include climbing Mount Kinabalu before heading down to Sandakan and Sepilok on the east coast, but more on that next time.

That's all for now folks.

Lots of love

Mr & Mrs McK Xxx